For my next caramel challenge, I attempt Pierre Hermé’s version of the classic Belle Hélène.
The traditional Belle Hélène includes poached pears served with vanilla ice cream and a chocolate sauce. Pierre Hermé’s version includes a few substitutes, bien sûr. Most notably, the ice cream choice is chocolate and the sauce, caramel. He also includes pear halves instead of whole pears. Because of this, I originally started plating the dessert instead of serving it up ‘sundae’ style. I was afraid the pears would be lost and wanted to display them more prominently.
So I carefully cut and fanned a pear on a plate. Then drizzled with caramel sauce. Setting that aside, I made a spun sugar ball as final decoration. Next, the-clock-is-now-ticking part. I made a perfect quenelle of ice-cream and delicately added to the plate. I was shocked and then horrified to see it immediately starting to melt practically as soon as it made contact with the plate – and before I could even pick up the camera.
I am not sure if it was because the spoon I used to quenelle the ice cream needed to be warm so it already started the ‘melting process’, or if the plate should have been chilled, or if the eggless ice cream is more difficult to work with? Any thoughts?
So Plan B it was. The original sundae serving suggestion.
I quickly made some more sugar threads to top the sundae. I flattened them out slightly to achieve a little contrast with the shape of the pear. (I should point out that this caramel decoration is not part of Pierre Hermé’s recipe, but when reading through it, I wanted to inject a little more caramel into the dessert.) The rest of the sundae came together quickly. And with just enough time to take a photograph, or two.
In terms of flavours, it was a delicious combination. I already have plans to make additional caramel sauce to keep in the fridge – as back-up. The chocolate ice cream was a refreshingly light version of the more popular creamy variety. And the pears? A simple lemon-vanilla syrup certainly infused its way throughout this fruit. I am not typically a big fruit dessert fan, but the delicate flavour of these pears will certainly have me coming back for more.
My next caramel challenge will absolutely be something with a little more ‘shelf life’ – for my sanity, if nothing else! And as soon as I receive the wedding photographs (pending!), I will do a little update on the wedding macarons favours and a few snaps from the big day.
{ Belle Hélène } recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Hermé and Dorie Greenspan
Pears
* Ingredients *
29 oz (825g) can of pear halves in syrup
1 cup water
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Pulp from half a vanilla bean
* Directions *
Drain the pears. Bring water, sugar, lemon and vanilla to the boil. Remove and pour over pears. Cover with wax paper and refrigerate overnight.
Caramel Sauce
* Ingredients *
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup sugar
3 tablespoons salted butter
* Directions *
Bring cream to a boil and then set aside. In clean saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of sugar over the bottom of the pan. A soon as the sugar starts to melt and colour, stir with a wooden spoon until it caramelises. Sprinkle over half the remaining sugar, and repeat. Add the remaining sugar and cook until the colour is deep brown colour. Take the pan off the heat and add the butter carefully (may splatter) and then add the cream. Continue to cook until the sauce just starts to boil again. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.
Chocolate Ice Cream
* Ingredients *
½ cup powdered milk
3 cups whole milk
1/3 cup sugar
8 oz (230g) bittersweet chocolate, chopped
* Directions *
Set up an ice water bath with a small and large bowl and set aside. Place powdered milk in sauepan and gradually whisk in whole milk. When powdered milk dissolved, whish in sugar. Bring mixtgure to the boil, then stir in the chopped chocolate and bring to the boil again. Pull pan from the heat and pour the hot choolate mixture into the reserved small bowl. Set the bowl into the ice water bath until cool. Churn the ice cream in an ice cream maker following the manufacturer’s dictions. Pack the ice cream into a freezer container and store in freezer for at least 2 hours.
Spun Sugar (recipe by Sherry Yard)
* Ingredients *
¼ cup water
1 cup sugar
* Directions *
Prepare an area for spinning the sugar. Position two medium saucepans with metal handles at the edge of the kitchen counter/bench. Let the handles extend out over the floor. Place some newspaper on the floor to cach drips. Combine the water and sugar in a saucepan. Cook the sugar until the temperature reaches 300F or 150C. Watch closely until the temperature edges up to 325F or 165C. Take the caramel off the heat and let cool to about 275F or 130C. Dip a fork into the caramel and carefully scoop out. Position the fork about 12 inches or 30cm above the handles and let the caramel flow off the fork, quickly wiggling the fork and draping the caramel back and forth over the handles. After two or three forkfuls, stop and gather up the sugar threads and set aside and begin again. Spun sugar needs to be used immediately.
Assembly
Put two scoops of chocolate ice cream into the bottom of a long stemmed balloon shaped wineglass or other cocktail glass. Top with a few pear halves and drizzle over some caramel sauce. Top with spun sugar, if using.
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Mélanger :: to mix 